Category Archives: Featured

Beachfront Oasis in Tulum, Mexico

4 Replies

[slideshow]

The first time I vacationed in the Cancun area was in 1990 and I had just broken up with a boyfriend. I knew back then I was not a fan of Cancun – not really sure why, as I had not been anywhere interesting at that stage in my life. Then again, it could have been influenced by the break-up – it totally sucked.

Back then, Tulum felt like a VERY long drive away from Cancun and seemed way beyond my reach. I was too chicken to rent a car and drive South on a solo expedition – if only I knew then what I think I know now. Fast forward many, many years and Greg and I pay a visit to Playa Del Carmen.

We thoroughly enjoyed Playa, but in typical Life Bus fashion, we were in search of an adventure. We took off in our rental car and headed South to Tulum to find one of the famous Cenotes to explore and see some ruins. I had nothing with me except my phone camera, a towel and a bathing suit. We drove for a couple of hours without incident and found ourselves in downtown Tulum. I could not for the life of me figure out what was so exciting about this town. I knew there was something else around the corner – I could smell it.

After circling around some back roads of the downtown area and discovering an amazing old cemetery, we found a sign that pointed to ‘la playa’. We took the turn and headed along the coastline. OMG – the experience was night and day. All of the lodging along the Boca Paila Rd. towards Punta Allen consists of small, interesting non-chain bungalows and 98% are located on the beach front. The range included all the way from very basic to the very posh.

We came across an obscure lodging option called the Encantada Beachfront Boutique Hotel, fairly close to the end of the road prior to reaching the Punta Allen State Park. You cannot see anything particularly special from the road, but, the signage for the hotel was lovely and seemed to be very upscale. I convinced Greg to stop and take a tour of one of the open palapa style rooms. It was love at first sight. Next thing I knew, we booked a night at the hotel, ordered up some margaritas and enjoyed a cool beach breeze on our private deck.

The hotel is one of my all-time faves. The details the San Francisco based owners put into this resort are UNBELIEVABLE, all the way from the fresh water jug in the room, to the shower tiles, deck chairs, beach lounge chairs, bedding, and the outdoor lights in the trees around the property. An added bonus provided by Mother Nature is the sand on the beach – white and as fine as powdered sugar. The water temperature and the waves are completely enjoyable and oh so addicting. Any time I feel stressed I imagine my experience in this little oasis – a lot of sunshine, soft sand and pure relaxation.

To top it off, the food at Encantada is de-lish and is served in very large portions – easily shared between 2 people. The room rate comes with a great breakfast of fresh local fruit, pastries and yogurt – the good stuff, not yoplait.

There are a total of 8 rooms with 4 directly on the beach front. I would do my best to secure the beach front rooms as you are nearly guaranteed to have a lovely ocean breeze to keep you cool. Warning: This is an eco-friendly hotel so they do not have A/C. It could be hot and humid in the dead of summer so take that into consideration when booking a room.

Some how I managed to live without a toothbrush and in a wet bathing suit for about 24 hours. It was worth the fuzzy teeth and butt crickets. I absolutely cannot wait to go back and enjoy some tasty food, margs, waves and a fine sand beach.

Slot Canyons in Page, AZ

Leave a reply

[slideshow]

At first glance, Page, AZ looks like an old washed up desert town with bad diners and cheap motels (this part is true in my opinion). Then you start digging a little deeper and you realize it is one of the most fascinating vacation spots in the United States. Page is home to the infamous Antelope Canyon. What is so fascinating about Antelope Canyon? It is one of the most gorgeous slot canyons in Utah and is located on land owned and managed by the Navajo Nation.

The Canyon itself is made up of Navajo Sandstone and over time has been eroded and formed by wind and flash flooding. There are 2 parts to Antelope Canyon – the Upper and the Lower. I would recommend the Lower Canyon simply because it can be a little more difficult to get into, therefore, the crowds are potentially smaller. You have to climb down and out on a solid ladder system and some of the pathways can be a little tight. The total distance underground is about .25 miles.

If you are a photographer or interested in geological formations, this is akin to heaven on earth. Since 1997, you are no longer allowed to enter the canyon without a Navajo Guide. Eleven tourists were trapped when a rain shower blew through the area and flooded the canyon. You can guess what happened next – it was quite tragic.

Key Tip: I would not recommend going during the monsoon season (July through September) which is in the summer time. It is hotter than hades and the chance of a flash flood occurring is high. Please, please, please check the weather before you venture into any slot canyon. Do not attempt if there is a chance of a flash flood unless you have a death wish. I cannot stress this enough.

How do you get there? Drive a few miles miles outside of Page and search for ‘the signs’. If iI remember correctly, it was not well marked and Greg and I seemed to miss the turn off a few times (that made for some fun car conversation). Double check with folks at the hotel for specific directions as markers and signage may have changed since we were there. Once you find the correct turnoff, you will quickly see a shack where you pay and hire the first available guide for the tour. Here is a pretty good link to describe hours of operation, etc. Antelope Canyon Logistics.

After walking just a few hundred yards, you will come upon a mysterious crack in the ground and descend a ladder about 25 feet under the surface of the earth. The scenery is one of the most stunning I have ever seen in my life. A combination of orange, red, pink and violet swirls adorn the walls of the Canyon and are significantly highlighted when the sunlight seeps through the cracks from above.

If you have an exceptional guide, he or she will take you through the canyon at your own pace and share the rich history and major landmarks. You have a 2 hour limit in the canyon, maximize it – it is truly an unbelievable experience and one you may never have the chance to see again. Who knows, the Navajos may get sick of the tourist industry and shut the whole thing down or you could violate the rules of the Life Bus and hoard your vacation until you are on your deathbed (not recommended).

Key Tip: Bring a good SLR camera with a wide angle lens, a tripod, a remote control release, a very large memory card, and a backpack with water and snacks. If you come across a particular spot where the sun is shining directly down to the bottom of the canyon, have your travel partner or guide throw a fistful of sand into the air. I missed out on this tip and therefore was not able to experience one of the most unbelievable photographic moments of my life. This just means I have to go again. If you are a photographer, go in the early hours and late afternoon in order to maximize your chances of a National Geographic moment.

How do you get to Page? You can fly into the local Page airport on Great Lakes Air, Las Vegas International Airport, or the Phoenix International Airport. I had the fortunate experience of a solo road trip from Denver – Greg met me in Page. It was a lovely, peaceful drive and one I will never forget.

Where does one stay in Page? There are not a whole lot of options – we stayed at the Best Western – pretty unremarkable really, but cheap and I got frequent traveler points. One guy actually had the audacity to gripe out the hotel manager because the breakfast was not to his liking. I figure, what do you expect from a Best Western? You will get a load of sugar and carbs and like it.

This experience was everything and more for me. All of the images you see in magazines, books, and websites are true to form and even more stunning in person. If you are an amateur photographer, it is really difficult not to get at least one good shot – you will feel like a pro. For you couch potatoes, this is not a physically challenging adventure, but is definitely Life Bus worthy – get out there and give it a go.

Aspen Golden Leaf Half Trail Marathon

Leave a reply

Every person who loves beautiful fall foliage, gorgeous mountain views, a fun personal challenge, and an epic ski town has to do this race at least once!!!!  Aspen Golden Leaf Half   This race was recently rated by Trail Runner Magazine as one of America’s Top 14 Most Scenic Races.  This is my fifth year running this race and I will probably be running it for as long as they continue to host the event.  The Aspen Golden Leaf Half trail race is a spectacular run that takes you from Snowmass into the town of Aspen on the Government Trail’s sweet singletrack. The date of this event is perfect for peak fall foliage viewing.  It is always the 3rd weekend in September.  The event is extremely well-coordinated and sponsored by Ute Mountaineering in Aspen.  Your entry fee gets you a technical tee, a pair of Smartwool socks, and typically some Clif Blocks or some other similar schwag.  Start time is a nice 8:30ish (depending on your time wave).  [slideshow]

So, let’s talk about what the race itself is actually like.  I won’t lie, for the average trail runner like myself, the first 1.5 miles is a real humdinger, lung-burner.  It’s 1000 feet of elevation straight up a forest service road.  At this point you’re at about 9600 elevation.  Once you’ve gotten past this first challenge (where you swear will you never, ever think of doing this race again), the trail is an undulating gorgeous run through aspen groves, pine forests, and across open fields that are ski runs in the winter.  The views of the surrounding mountains are gorgeous and the color of the aspens across all of the hillsides is breath-taking.  There is another 300 feet of climbing at about the 5 mile mark.  At about mile 8, you begin a bomber downhill run for a few miles.  For the last 2 -3 miles, you’re on the flats into Little Cloud park in Aspen proper.

The cool part of this event doesn’t end once you reach the finish line.  This is one post-race expo for which it is definitely worth sticking around.  The food is always quite good and the post-race raffle is probably the best in the country.  Thanks to Ute Mountaineering’s vendor relationships, there is a seemingly endless amount of raffle items for runners to win.  These are no mere raffle prizes.  In the past, raffle items have included BD trekking poles, Smith sunglasses, Vasque trail-runners, Chacos, Patagonia windstopper jackets, restaurant vouchers, Aspen Sky hotel vouchers, etc.  Todd has won items in the raffle the last two years:  one Timex watch and one Patagonia technical long-sleeve shirt.  As a runner you are automatically entered with your bib number into this raffle.  Just make sure you listen carefully for your number.  I’m sure you wouldn’t want to miss out on a new backpack!  One other note, this race generally fills up quickly so if you’re up for the challenge make sure you register early.

Trust me on this one, you won’t regret it!!  Have fun!!

Bhutan: The Chomolhari Trek

Leave a reply

[slideshow]

Have you ever wanted to experience the Himalayas without the fear of crime, funky food, crowds and pollution? Look no further  than Bhutan (minus the funky food) right next door to India and Tibet in central Asia.   Greg and I did the 8 day Chomolhari trek through this amazing mountain range with REI Adventures.  Bhutan is a pretty cool place – however it can be an expensive destination.  They do not have an appreciation for backpackers so don’t even think about it – they have no desire to mimic Nepal.   The culture here is as thick as molasses – they are Buddhist through and through and have a strong desire to keep it that way.

We started our adventure on a crisp day in November.  It was one of the most challenging treks we have ever done – the average hiking distance was about 10 miles per day. We hiked on rocky terrain and over steep mountain passes, there was nothing easy about it.  When it was all said and done, we logged approximately 80 miles and crossed over 3 mountain passes, one reaching ~16,000 feet.   All 7 of our nights were spent in a tent – in a cold, cold (did I say cold?) tent.   Our guide swore a snow leopard passed through our campsite – only the shadow knows if that was a true statement – I think it could have been a Yeti.  REI does a great job, but there isn’t much they can do when it is below 30 degrees at night and first thing in the morning.  I learned my lesson and now have a -20 degree sleeping bag for trips like this.

A few things to note:

  • Do not be shocked if you happen to see a penis painted on every house you pass.
  • In order for you and the rest of your group to enjoy this trip, you must be in good physical condition.  No one likes a whiner or someone who holds the rest of the group back.
  • Please make sure you bring the right gear and test it before you go on this trip.
  • REI has a packing list for a reason – pay attention and don’t think you know more than the masters of the outdoors.
  • If you wear new hiking boots for the first time on this trip – well, I don’t really know what to say.
  • Don’t over pack – those tents get small, REAL quick and if you have a roommate you don’t know (or can’t stand), it could be a heinous experience.
  • If you like meat – don’t expect a big juicy steak here. It is a Buddhist country after all and they get most of their meats from India (and you know how they feel about the bovine species).
  • Hydration is key – altitude sickness is not pleasant.  I had a rager of a headache after one day of hiking and wanted to shoot myself.
  • Bring your meds – as usual, there is is always one person who contracts montezuma’s revenge and suffers horribly for several days.
  • No matter how tempting it is, do not attempt to share any beetle root with the guides, your teeth are sure to turn a nice cherry Kool-aid color.
  • Be flexible and kind to your fellow travelers – do not, under any circumstances, ask the group to sing the ever popular, “Puff the Magic Dragon” at the dinner table.

I think my pictures speak louder than my words for Bhutan – hope you enjoy.  If you are interested in a challenging trip that will push your physical limits, I highly recommend it.  REI is my travel company of choice – I have been on 4 trips with them and have loved every single one of them.  I plan 98% of my trips, but when a guide is necessary, it’s REI all the way.

Jump on the Life Bus and visit Bhutan which is rich in culture, scenery and some of the most incredibly wonderful, kind, gentle people you will ever meet in your life.

Home Stays and Rice Paddies in Vietnam

Leave a reply

[slideshow]

After many years of traveling around Europe, I began to feel the need to venture into Asia.  Asia has become one of my favorite places to explore.  Why? Because it is so authentic and original. Many Asian countries don’t spend money on infrastructure or pretty buildings – what you see is what you get and I love it. Not to mention the fact the food is outrageous and cheap.

I was always fascinated by the thought of visiting Vietnam – this mythical country where my dad spent several years away from the family.  Greg was totally on board with the adventure so I started digging for ideas.  I did my homework and found 2 words in the guide books that intrigued me – Home Stay.   One thing I found during my research is that YouTube can be used as a phenomenal source of information – I know – everyone else knew this years ago – I am clearly slow on the uptake. There are several videos that illustrate what it is like to stay in a Vietnamese home – once my eyes digested the experience, I was all over it like white on rice.

The best place for a home stay experience is in Northwestern Nam in a place called Sapa which is situated very close to the Chinese border.  You can find more great information about Sapa via the Sapa Wikitravel Guide.  One thing to know is that you cannot do a home stay without a guide – for your safety and the safety of the families. Besides, they typically don’t speak a lick of English so unless you speak Vietnamese, communication can be entertaining. I came across a tour company called Handspan Travel.  To be honest, I picked it because it was cheap and the website looked nice – what can I say, I am easy.

The option I chose was an adventure 3 day, 4 nighter where you take an overnight train from Hanoi to Sapa, hike down (very steeply) into the valley and spend 2 nights with 2 different families, then take an overnight train back to Hanoi.  I recently checked the Handspan website and it doesn’t look like they offer this option anymore.  I would suggest calling them to see if there is chance they can create a special package for you.  My feeling is that one night in a home stay is just not enough.

What was the trip like?  Magnificent.

The Train:  The overnight train ride was interesting  – unless there are 4 of you, you will share a train car with other people so you will have to get over that fact. The beds are a little short too, so if you are over 5’8″, you may find yourself in the fetal position whilst sleeping.  Bring earplugs – the sound of the training cruising along the tracks is loud enough to keep you up at night.  The tour operator should ensure you get to the train safely and they should have a representative to greet you when you arrive to Sapa.

Sapa:  Sapa itself is a cool little town with an abundance of shopping and eating opportunities.   You will see many of the ethnic minorities in full on traditional dress wandering around selling their wares – it sort of feels a little like a Mexican border town but it is not something you should miss.   The Black Hmong is one of the most prevalent minorities you will see – from what our guide told us, they are a little further down the totem pole as far as social/wealth status and are ‘not to be trusted’. We totally enjoyed them and found them to be very sweet and entertaining.

The Trek:  The guide will take you down into the valley where you will see some amazing scenery – rice paddies, people working the fields with their water buffalo, rustic farms, lean-to-sheds where people live (and you will stay at some point).  The trail is pretty steep and was not smooth single track, at least when we were there.  If you go during the rainy season, the trail will be very slick – I would avoid it like the plague.   Here is the somewhat annoying part…the Black Hmong women will follow you the entire way to keep you from cracking your skull (and with an ulterior motive of course).  At the end of the road, they expect you to buy the stuff they are selling – purses, jewelry, etc. Being the sap that I am, I loaded up with a bunch of ‘hand made’ purses for friends. How could I say no?  One had a baby on her back and 2 others held my hand on the sketchy parts of the trail.

The Home Stays:  This is the BEST part of the whole trip.  Many of the homes are wood frames built on concrete with tin roofs.  The beds we slept in were thin mattresses on the ground with mosquito netting.  Of course they do not have indoor plumbing (don’t expect a hot shower) and I can tell you, they certainly do not have granite counter tops in their kitchens.  In fact, the kitchens include 2 holes in the ground and are fueled by wood.

The meals they cooked for us were unbelievable – 5 courses, all sorts of meat and veggies – some from their own gardens – and all from the 2 holes in the ground located conveniently in the corner of their home.  The hosts were all very lovely and inviting and were more than willing to share their daily lives with us.  The one consistent luxury we saw was a rice cooker and one house had a TV – other than that, they are living off the land, wearing flimsy plastic flip flops and are happy as clams. Oh when will I be willing to give up my Frye boots?  Probably never (just being honest).

Key tips:  Make sure you do some research on the vaccinations you need for this part of the world.  The CDC has some recommendations on this topic. Make sure you also stock up on Cipro and you should be good to go.  We didn’t get sick on this trip, but it’s better to be safe than sorry.  Obviously do a weather check – we were hotter than a pig on a spit because we packed for cooler temps.  Have an amazing time exploring Vietnam – it is an incredible country with some fascinating history.  Please go in with an open mind and be patient – things don’t operate like they do in Amarillo, TX or Pueblo, CO.

A Pie Worth a Trip to Otis

2 Replies

To understand just how good the pie is at the Otis Cafe and why it merits its own pilgrimage to Otis,  you have to know that you are going to Otis exclusively for the cafe.  Otis is basically an unincorporated community in Lincoln County, OR.  It is one of those places so small that it has been put up for auction with a starting bid of $3 million dollars.  Included in this fire-sale were such items as:  the gas station, mini grocery store, Pronto-pup corn dog stand, two houses, the Otis post office, the Otis Cafe, an auto-repair garage and … well you get the idea … a very small place.

Have I mentioned before that I love food … very high on that list of favorite foods is strawberry-rhubarb pie.  In fact, Todd and I make it a goal to try to find some form of this tasty treat on every trip we take.  So when we heard about the Otis Cafe and its pies there was no doubt that we would have to make our way to Otis.  The gods were smiling on us that day.  To date, this is still the best strawberry rhubarb pie we have ever experienced.  The cafe is a quintessential, quaint roadside diner that epitomizes a road trip pit stop.  There wasn’t anything we had that wasn’t amazing.  And if strawberry rhubarb isn’t quite as much your thing as it ours, never fear, there are numerous other pie options to delight your tastebuds.  So please, if you’re driving along the Oregon Coast, do yourself a favor and veer off the road to the Otis Cafe.  Enjoy!!  And, as always, if you try Otis Cafe out, let me know your thoughts.

Paddling the Blue Waters of Lake Tahoe

2 Replies

[slideshow]

I clearly heard Greg say he wanted to start our summer road trip in Lake Tahoe as he thought it would be a great place to kick off a vacation…..After a few weeks of research on where to stay and what to do, I shared what I found. His first question was, “Why are we going to Lake Tahoe?”  He swore the conversation never occurred. Whatever, I suppose it could have been a dream.  I plowed forward with a plan to start off in Tahoe anyway.

We did a bunch of cool stuff but thought I would focus on the day we went kayaking and happened upon some naked people while hiking in the same area.  Let me start by saying there was A LOT of wind the entire time we were there. So much, that Greg mentioned it every 10 seconds. Because of the wind, the chance to kayak on the pristine blue waters seemed to be slim to none.  Mainly because kayaking on white caps is not my personal favorite.

We never gave up hope – we got up extra early one morning and I had the Wind Monitor (aka Greg) check the velocity of the wind.  It turned out to be a pretty nice day so we drove over to the East side of the lake to a place called Sand Cove.  There are kayak rentals on the shore, however, if you happen to find another kayak shop in town that is of interest to you, they may be able to drop off some boats for you.

When we got there, the first thing I noticed is that the water is Caribbean blue – had NO idea.  It was amazing.  We hopped in our kayaks and took a right (North) to a beautiful cove about .2 miles away from the rental spot.   After about an hour and some change, the wind picked up AGAIN so we turned around and returned our equipment. Unfortunately, it was a short trip for us, but on a gorgeous day, it would be a great idea to pack some food and spend the entire afternoon paddling along the shore (the kayak company will give you dry bags).  The opportunities for some good picnicking and cove exploring are plentiful.

In spite of the devil-wind, we decided not to end the afternoon and headed South in Lola – our rented gold Chevy Impala.  A few miles down the road, we stopped at an unmarked (but rather busy) parking area and went for a hike. The trails will take you down to the shore or on a high trail that will skirt the Lake and present you with some pretty awesome views.  We took the ‘high road’ and after about a half mile, we came across a cove I would have never expected to see in Tahoe.

When I saw the clear, blue-green waters, instinct kicked in and I started snapping photos.  I was focused on the water, apparently Greg was more focused on the shore. The next thing I hear from Greg is “There are naked people down there!”   Sure enough, we inadvertently made our way to the one and only nudist beach on Lake Tahoe to a place called, ‘The Secret Cove’.  If you decide to rent kayaks, you can paddle your way down there and see some interesting stuff.

For Greg, being naked outside is second nature so it meant nothing to him.  I of course, giggled like a dork, and felt like a little school-girl.  The day ended on a good note with plenty of laughter and a ridiculous amount of wind – it was the day I fell in love with Lake Tahoe – can’t wait to go back and who knows, maybe I will end up on the beach in the Secret Cove!

Talkeetna: Funky Mountain Town with the World’s Best Cinnamon Rolls

Leave a reply

[slideshow]In true Life Bus fashion, Pam. Greg, Todd, and I were continuing our Alaskan adventure by driving to Denali National Park to try our hand at backpacking in Denali’s backcountry.  On the highway to Denali we saw signs for Talkeetna and veered off the road to make a pit stop here.  All we had really heard about Talkeetna was that Talkeetna was a tiny, scenic mountain town and the place where most climbers begin their quest to summit Denali.  Despite the fact that our views of Denali and the surrounding mountains were obscured by low clouds and mist, Talkeetna is a pit stop any Life Busser has to make when venturing in Alaska.  With or without the spectacular views of the Alaska Range, Talkeetna is a town with a great vibe, great food, and great people.  Even if you are not part of the mountaineers heading out to take on Denali, you can’t help but feel a part of something cool when you are here. You almost feel like you want to grab some crampons and go for it.  Normally I would never speak kindly of dampness but in Talkeetna it makes you want to grab a cozy fleece and head in doors for a cup o’ coffee and one of the world’s best cinnamon rolls. Talkeetna might be the epitome of a Life Bus pit stop.

In Talkeetna you will see people getting ready to push their limits on Denali, people who have chosen a slower life way off the grid, and people like us who love these small, out-of-the-way towns with character and scenery in abundance.  This scenic, historic, “end-of-the-road” town feels like you just stepped onto the set of Northern Exposure.  This is a town where, we were informed by the locals, they have a sign-up list for moose road kill.  When a moose is killed on the roads, the carcass gets shared with whomever is on the list.  Talk about using all of your resources to the fullest! Quaint, historic store fronts line the town’s tiny main thoroughfare with lush, beautiful flowers that appear to thrive in this damp climate.

For such a tiny town, there are quite a few great looking watering holes.  We ventured into the Roadhouse for a bite to eat.  Wow, what a find!!  Talkeetna Roadhouse.  The Roadhouse is the quintessential, mountain-town, breakfast joint jam packed with patrons hanging out in various levels of fleece / climber fashion.  The walls are adorned with tons of Denali climbing memorabilia.  It is a small, busy place and you wonder how they turn out such amazing food in a building  built in 1917.  Anyhoo, let’s get to the really important part of all of this …. the food.  We saw pancakes the size of platters draping over the edges of the plates, burritos the size of your head, and yes …. gooey, not too sweet, humongous cinnamon rolls that are gifts from heaven and still have me dreaming about them.  So good I recently tried to FedEx them to Colorado for my husband’s birthday.  No dice, they said they won’t travel well.   We then cruised over to the West Rib Pub.  We had good hamburgers and a great local bartender.

In all honesty, there isn’t a ton to do in Talkeetna proper.  It is clearly an access point to lots of outdoor adventure.  It is, however, very beautiful, has great food, and a cool vibe which makes it worth a stop.  And, if you’re lucky to have good weather, the views of the Denali and the Alaska Range are said to be breath-taking.  One caveat, we had the misfortune of sharing this quaint town with a tour bus full of cruisers from a Princess Cruise tour. They apparently descend on the town periodically.  Oh well, what do you do? So, take your bus to Talkeetna sometime.  The beauty and cinnamon rolls are worth the trip!!!

Great Food in Coral Bay St. John’s USVI

2 Replies

So ya’ gotta eat while you are on an adventure, right? My friends routinely tease me because I vividly remember meals I have eaten on my travels. What can I say, I am a devoted foodie. I was blessed to have a mother who was an amazing cook and food was a big part of our family and our travel experiences. It isn’t typically super fancy food that I love, however. I am usually a sucker for the local watering hole with simple local specialties. Two tiny restaurants in Coral Bay, where I can remember each morsel I ate, are worth mentioning.

Miss Lucy’s is a tiny restaurant where your dinner table is practically sitting in the waters of Coral Bay. I can’t imagine many better places to enjoy a meal than looking out over the Caribbean with your toes almost in the water. Sometimes, the setting of a restaurant can compensate for a lot when the food is merely mediocre. This is absolutely not the case with Miss Lucy’s. If anything eclipses the fabulous setting it is the pina colada pancakes. These were LOADED with pineapple, coconut, and banana chunks and the fluffiest batter I’ve ever tasted. Todd and I also ate dinner and lunch at Miss Lucy’s. All of these other meals were very good as well. It is the pancakes, however, that I continue to dream about!! [slideshow]

Donkey Diner with kick ass food was another culinary highlight. Exactly what you’d want on a Caribbean adventure. Total boho vibe with amazing food. Todd had the stuffed french toast with mango pineapple chutney and I had the burrito special. Both meals were amazing and the staff was great. You can see that I really do vividly remember every great meal experience. So when the Life Bus takes you to Coral Bay, make sure you check out both of these places for your meals. Great locations, great vibe, and great food. What more could one ask for?

The Awesomeness that is St. John’s USVI

4 Replies

Who knew that you could find quiet beaches, secluded hikes, pristine snorkeling, and an environmentally friendly resort in the Caribbean without shelling out hundreds of dollars a night? Todd and I certainly didn’t until we happened upon St. John’s USVI and the Concordia Eco Resort.[slideshow]

On a whim, Todd and I decided to go to the Caribbean over Christmas. Not exactly the cheapest place to visit that time of year! Just as we thought it wouldn’t work out,  without a huge financial commitment, we came upon an article I had torn out about snorkeling Waterlemon Cay on St. John’s and the Concordia Eco Resort.  We called immediately and, as luck would have it, they had one room left for the nights of our trip.

We couldn’t have imagined a better Caribbean experience.  Even at the busiest time of year in the Caribbean, we found ourselves frequently alone on hikes and on beaches.  Thanks to philanthropist John D. Rockefeller, approximately two thirds of St. John’s is preserved as a US National Park.  This means that for most of the island there are few roads, mega resorts, mobs of sunburned tourists, or drunk cruise ship passengers over running your paradise.  Cruz Bay, despite being a port town,  is remarkably laid back and retains it’s charm.  Coral Bay, on the opposite side of the island, is even smaller and more laid back than Cruz Bay.  It does have amazing dining, however.  (See Food Finds post on restaurants here).

So, what to do while you are on this paradise?  The options are numerous but here are some of the things we did which turned out to be fabulous!  Waterlemon Cay surpassed our expectations for snorkeling.  To get to Waterlemon Cay, you hike along a beautiful trail around Leinster Bay.  You can snorkel all the way around Waterlemon Cay but be mindful that with strong winds, the far side can be a bit rough for a novice swimmer.  Be sure to bring a picnic lunch and sunscreen.  Combine this with a hike up to the Anneberg Ruins for an amazing day of sun, snorkeling, views, and sheer Caribbean beauty.

The Reef Trail hike was a beautiful hike where you can get some good exercise.  Todd and I started at Little Lamshur beach and hiked up.  There was actually a decent amount of elevation gain on this hike.  We made it to the old plantation ruin, covered in a beautiful pink vine, before it got too late.   Little Lamshur is in the national park, it is a rather quiet beach.  At dusk, when Todd and I found ourselves alone on this beach, we threw caution to the wind and skinny dipped!!  The road to the beach is a bit bumpy but well worth the ride.  (4×4 may be advisable.)

Then of course there is Trunk Bay, Hawksnest, Cinnamon, and Maho Bay.  These have all been written about extensively and rightly so.  Beautiful, beautiful beaches.  FYI – Trunk Bay does get a lot of day-trippers from the cruise ships.  We went here later in the afternoon and had the beach all to ourselves.  No skinny dipping this time.

Driving is of course a small thrill unto itself on St. John’s.  You drive on the left side of the road and the steering wheel is also on the left.  Not too bad getting used to.  The roads are narrow two lane roads with sharp turns and 20% grades.  Nothing scary, just fun.  4×4 totally the way to go.

Last but not least, is our awesome hotel the Concordia eco resort.  Concordia is not for someone seeking a luxury 5 star Caribbean hotel experience. Concordia is a special place for so many other reasons. The location of this resort is unbeatable. Concordia is near Coral Bay.  Even though it’s only approximately 12 miles across this island, the steep, narrow, curvy roads make it hard to drive faster than 10 mph. Most people don’t even venture over to this side of the island.  The Coral Bay side of St. John’s is so much quieter you feel almost like you are alone in the Caribbean. The USVI National Park lies between the two sides of the St. John’s.  www.concordiaeco-resort.com/

Todd and I stayed in Premium Eco Tent #19.  A permanent canvas tent with everything a happy camper could want.  Full pan and dish set with 2 cooking burners, a sink for washing dishes, a cooler chest for food / beverages, a separate smaller building with solar shower / WC, and endless beautiful scenery. Potable water stations are located everywhere.  The way the tents are situated it is almost impossible to have any of your neighbors get a glimpse of you unless they are really motivated to do so.  Given the secluded setting of each tent, you can (and should) unzip all of the walls of your tent and let the amazing breezes blow through your tent along with the sounds of the sea and the glimmer of the stars.    In the event  you don’t feel like leaving this great place, the food here is very good as well.

St. John’s was a serendipitous, spur of the moment Life Bus experience.  One I could repeat year after year!  Enjoy this Caribbean jewel.  Oh yeah, don’t forget to keep a look out for the donkeys and sheep that roam the island freely.