Tag Archives: Mexico

Exploring Cenotes in Tulum, Mexico

When I first saw the word Cenote, I immediately thought of a $100 bill.   After asking a Mexican local to repeat the word several times I finally learned how to properly say it (say-no-tay).  What is a Cenote?  It is an open water pool most likely formed from the collapse of the roof of a cave.  Over a period of roughly 6500 years, these geological events and other forces of nature created over 300 miles of interconnected passageways and cave systems in the Yucatan Peninsula. Cenotes are specific to this area and offer up the chance to explore crystal clear waters and encounter geological formations such as stalactites and stalagmites – some of the most unique natural wonders of the world.

Snorkeling or diving in one of these underground wonders is a must do if you are in or nearby Cancun, Cozumel, Playa or Tulum.  The one challenge you will face is determining which one to explore – there seems to be hundreds of them in the area. We asked a few American ‘locals’ and they all recommended Dos Ojos (Spanish for two eyes). Apparently there is an IMAX film floating around out there called ‘Journey into Amazing Caves’ that features Dos Ojos.  If you can find it, it will give you an idea of what to expect.  I have not seen it yet, but would say if it has an IMAX tag associated with it, it has to be pretty sensational.

Dos Ojos is one of the longest underwater cave systems in the world so it is primo for SCUBA diving.   If you don’t dive, don’t let this fact intimidate you, snorkeling is just as enjoyable.  If you SCUBA, you must have a guide, if you snorkel, you have the option of hiring a guide or going at it on your own.  I typically don’t enjoy the whole guide thing, but we decided to hire one anyway.  Mostly because we got there an hour before they closed and we wanted to maximize our visit and squeeze in as much snorkeling as possible.   It turned out to be a good idea as he took us to parts of the cave I am pretty sure I would not have ventured to for fear I would not get out alive.  It was totally cool – we saw the geological formations I noted above, and can fully validate the water is amazingly  crystal clear.  There is also a small bat population dwelling in the caves – I don’t know what it is, but I am always completely fascinated by those little creatures.

Key Tips:  The water temperatures are supposed to be constant at 77 F, but I found after an hour or so of being underground, I got a little chilly.  If you have a tendency to get cold, I would bring a swim shirt.   They do offer wetsuits but that seems to be a little excessive.  If there is a chance you are claustrophobic, let your guide know.  We found ourselves squeezing between some tight spaces that got my blood flowing.

Visiting the Yucatan Peninsula doesn’t have to be all about lying on the soft, white sand beaches and relaxing in the sun with a good book and a margarita in hand.  If the sound of that bores you in any way, you can get a bit of an adrenaline rush with visit to a Cenote.

Beachfront Oasis in Tulum, Mexico

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The first time I vacationed in the Cancun area was in 1990 and I had just broken up with a boyfriend. I knew back then I was not a fan of Cancun – not really sure why, as I had not been anywhere interesting at that stage in my life. Then again, it could have been influenced by the break-up – it totally sucked.

Back then, Tulum felt like a VERY long drive away from Cancun and seemed way beyond my reach. I was too chicken to rent a car and drive South on a solo expedition – if only I knew then what I think I know now. Fast forward many, many years and Greg and I pay a visit to Playa Del Carmen.

We thoroughly enjoyed Playa, but in typical Life Bus fashion, we were in search of an adventure. We took off in our rental car and headed South to Tulum to find one of the famous Cenotes to explore and see some ruins. I had nothing with me except my phone camera, a towel and a bathing suit. We drove for a couple of hours without incident and found ourselves in downtown Tulum. I could not for the life of me figure out what was so exciting about this town. I knew there was something else around the corner – I could smell it.

After circling around some back roads of the downtown area and discovering an amazing old cemetery, we found a sign that pointed to ‘la playa’. We took the turn and headed along the coastline. OMG – the experience was night and day. All of the lodging along the Boca Paila Rd. towards Punta Allen consists of small, interesting non-chain bungalows and 98% are located on the beach front. The range included all the way from very basic to the very posh.

We came across an obscure lodging option called the Encantada Beachfront Boutique Hotel, fairly close to the end of the road prior to reaching the Punta Allen State Park. You cannot see anything particularly special from the road, but, the signage for the hotel was lovely and seemed to be very upscale. I convinced Greg to stop and take a tour of one of the open palapa style rooms. It was love at first sight. Next thing I knew, we booked a night at the hotel, ordered up some margaritas and enjoyed a cool beach breeze on our private deck.

The hotel is one of my all-time faves. The details the San Francisco based owners put into this resort are UNBELIEVABLE, all the way from the fresh water jug in the room, to the shower tiles, deck chairs, beach lounge chairs, bedding, and the outdoor lights in the trees around the property. An added bonus provided by Mother Nature is the sand on the beach – white and as fine as powdered sugar. The water temperature and the waves are completely enjoyable and oh so addicting. Any time I feel stressed I imagine my experience in this little oasis – a lot of sunshine, soft sand and pure relaxation.

To top it off, the food at Encantada is de-lish and is served in very large portions – easily shared between 2 people. The room rate comes with a great breakfast of fresh local fruit, pastries and yogurt – the good stuff, not yoplait.

There are a total of 8 rooms with 4 directly on the beach front. I would do my best to secure the beach front rooms as you are nearly guaranteed to have a lovely ocean breeze to keep you cool. Warning: This is an eco-friendly hotel so they do not have A/C. It could be hot and humid in the dead of summer so take that into consideration when booking a room.

Some how I managed to live without a toothbrush and in a wet bathing suit for about 24 hours. It was worth the fuzzy teeth and butt crickets. I absolutely cannot wait to go back and enjoy some tasty food, margs, waves and a fine sand beach.