Monthly Archives: September 2012

Fast Pam and the Russian at Newark Liberty International Airport

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I recently had the joy of commuting from Colorado to Northern Jersey for a solid year. Good news is, I enjoyed what I was doing, who I was working with and made damn sure I took full advantage of the close proximity to New York City.  Bad news is, I had to fly in and out of Newark Liberty International Airport (Newark).  If you want a guaranteed bad travel experience, fly in and out of Newark in the winter.  The only good thing about this airport is the Smash Burger in Terminal C.

One week this past Spring, I had a hideously stressful week at work so when I got to Newark to head home, I went on complete auto-pilot. I dragged my luggage to the United check-in area, printed my boarding pass, cruised through security without  a hitch, and made my way to the gate after a pit-stop at Crumbles for a red velvet cupcake.  When I got to the gate I plopped my tired, glassy-eyed self in a chair and looked at my boarding pass to make sure I didn’t get stuck in a middle seat.

At first I thought I was imagining things, but then I looked a little closer and realized I had a boarding pass for a Russian MAN in my hands.  Pretty sure I am not Russian or male. I had somehow picked up the wrong boarding pass from United and made it past the top-notch Newark TSA security team.  Good thing I followed strict protocol and packed my Burt’s Bees lip balm and my 3 oz hand lotion in a clear plastic bag – god knows those are dangerous objects requiring full disclosure.

Since my good friends at TSA failed to do their job properly and potentially placed others in harm’s way, I felt it was my civic duty to let them know things had gone awry. The supervisor was quite embarrassed and thanked me profusely.

All I could think about was how safe I felt flying the friendly skies that day and how I will never forget one of my most precious moments at Newark.

The Best Crabs You’ll Ever Have

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On our layover in Juneau between our East Turner Lake adventure and flying to Gustavus, we had exactly one hour before our plane left.  There was never any question between the four of us how we would spend that hour.  We literally ran from the airport gate to the taxi cab stand, flagged down a cab, and said “take us to Tracy’s Crab Shack.”  The cab driver raced through the outskirts of town to Juneau and careened up to the Shack.  We ran up and ordered 4 buckets of claws and Alaskan ambers.  (I’m drooling just writing this.)  Inhaling would be a good adjective to describe how we woofed down the moistest, most flavorful, meatiest crab legs you can imagine.  Tracy’s is a supporter of Alaska’s sustainable fisheries as well.   [slideshow]  Tracy’s King Crab Shack

We had our first taste of the divineness that is Tracy’s while we were in Juneau the night before heading out to East Turner Lake. The guide book had indicated good crab located by the cruise ships.  Both were understatements.The crab is amazing and the Shack is basically right up against the cruise ships right by the gang planks passengers use to load and unload from the ships.  It’s tiny size is dwarfed by the hulking ships a few feet away.  Tracy’s is one of those tiny shacks that make you wonder how they can produce the quantity and quality of the food they do.  Topping off the great seafood we had Alaskan ambers.  This was one of those moments you have to ask, does life get any better than this.

We jumped back in the waiting taxi and made it to the airport just as they were loading up the plane.  I think Greg is still in amazement at the fact that we spent $100 to get crab legs. Hope that gives you an idea of how good this hole-in-the-wall is.  To me, Tracy’s represents one of those places and times in a trip you just want to last forever.  Good food, good friends, great memories!  The spontaneous nature of this outing to Tracy’s is pure Life Bus living!

Hut Trippin’ in the Colorado Rockies

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One of my favorite things to do in Colorado in the winter is to ‘do a hut trip’.  What does that mean exactly?  Well, there is a backcountry hut system that includes 30 huts scattered about the Rocky Mountains.  These rustic cabins are located at about 10,000+ feet and have been built with love and care by the 10th Mountain Division Association.  Many have been built in honor of fallen heroes or deceased lovers of the outdoors. There is typically a write-up in the hut about how it was named – touching indeed.

What are the huts like?

The huts are log cabins (1,500 to 3,000 sq ft) and sleep anywhere from 6 to 20 people which means you are going to share the joint with many folks you don’t know.  Yes, sometimes you will find a person who wants to sing Puff the Magic Dragon after dinner – practice emotional intelligence skills and ignore.  There are typically a few rooms that sleep 4 to 6 at a pop and a shared common space where you put the kids or your friends who snore.

If you stay in one of the larger huts, there is a common area on the first floor where everyone congregates.  The common area includes bench type seating along the windows that show off the CRAZY beauty of the Rocky Mountains.  This is also where the kitchen ‘lives’.  The kitchen is equipped with everything you need from plates, coffee mugs, cookware, and utensils.  There is a fireplace as well. This multi-functional object serves as a way to heat the cabin, dry wet clothes and melt snow for cooking.

There is no running water, so you will not have a hot shower, bath or flushing toilet. You have a method to melt water via the fireplace as mentioned above and have to boil it on the gas stove in the kitchen to make it drinkable.

How do you make a reservation?  There are several ways to accomplish this sometimes challenging task:

    1. Go to the following link and go through the lottery process
    2. Go to the following link for reservations outside of the lottery
    3. Go to the following link to search the community posts for people who are looking to sell their spots

What mode of transportation is used to access a hut?

You have the option of  back country skiing or snowshoeing to get to the front door.  If you cross country ski, I would suggest your skill level be considered intermediate or above.  Routes are typically about 6 to 7 miles in duration and can include undulating terrain.  Many folks sign up for a ‘hut to hut’ trip and backcountry ski from one to the other.  That looks pretty cool to me, however, I am not a great cross country skier and I fear snowshoeing would not be nearly as enjoyable.

What do you do when you get to a hut?

    1. Ponder Life Bus activities
    2. Hang with friends and play games or chat about your favorite blogs
    3. Backcountry ski or snowshoe in the surrounding area
    4. Dig out a racetrack on one of the hills and sled like there is no tomorrow
    5. Read
    6. Nap

What do you bring to a hut?

    1. Sleeping bag and a pillow case unless you are ok with using the case that is currently on the pillow and used by hundreds prior to washing.
    2. Good food.  I have seen people make cupcakes using a clever backpacking recipe. If you go with multiple couples, you can plan who cooks what meal and lighten the load a little.
    3. Sleds!  Bring at least 2, there are plenty of hills around!
    4. Beer or wine is a must if you are so inclined.
    5. Trash bags as you have to pack out your trash.
    6. Appropriate cold weather clothing – don’t forget you are in the mountains where the weather can change in an instant.
    7. Toiletries you can’t live without.  Keep in mind, your backpack can get heavy QUICKLY if you don’t watch it.

It’s an interesting study of social behavior….people JUST KNOW what to do when they get to a hut.  Groups sort of magically disperse and respect other’s privacy and space. Depending on the experience of the attendees, rarely do you have to coordinate much with other groups.

Overall, this is one of the best ways to spend time with good friends in Colorado.  It’s cheap, physically challenging and a perfect way to spend a few days in the Rocky Mountains in the winter.  It doesn’t get much better than this!

Keep your Head Warm in a Cold Tent

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When I backpack or camp in cold weather, I sleep with a beanie on my head for added warmth.  Over the years, I have been driven crazy by the fact that the beanie NEVER stays on my head.  I invariably wake up in the middle of the night aimlessly searching for it in the dark tent.  After several futile attempts, I usually give up and lie there – freezing – for what seems like eternity.  If I do get lucky and find the beanie, the vicious cycle seems to continue throughout the night.

What is my solution for this maddening situation?  I just discovered the Patagonia Women’s R3@ Hi-Loft Hoody which is considered one of Patagonia’s warmest layering pieces – it is thick and fluffy. I do have to warn you, if you have a tendency to sleep warm, this may not be the solution for you.  If you sleep cold like I do, you will be nice and cozy.  If you get hot, you simply pull off the hood.

If for some reason you find it is not the best option for sleeping and would like it for other uses, you will appreciate the fact that with the hood on, you will avoid the feeling of wind on the back of your neck whilst enjoying those cold winter days. Depending on the temps, it can be worn by itself or as a toasty mid-layer.

I love all Patagonia has to offer for many reasons, but I particularly like their green attitude. Per their website, they “recycle used soda bottles, unusable second quality fabrics and worn out garments into polyester fibers to produce many of our clothes.”

Environmentally friendly AND good for noggin warming – what’s not to love?

Avoid Winter Ice Mishaps

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One Thursday morning in the dead of winter in Colorado, I was wheeling the trashcan down to the curb for pickup.  Just so happens, the driveway was an ice field as it was one of the coldest winters we had in a long time.  Large amounts of snow dumped all over the state and with ridiculous travel schedules, we couldn’t keep up with the shoveling.  One minute I was excited to start the day, and the next thing I know, my feet were flying out from underneath me.   I landed directly on my bum and the back of my head hit the driveway with a healthy bounce.  Luckily I didn’t crack my skull, but I am convinced I broke my butt-bone. I couldn’t sit without wincing for about a year. That was an awesome year.

The memory of that day still sticks in my mind and since then I have issues with ‘black’ ice, white ice, snow packed trails, etc.   In order to muster up the courage to actually leave the house in the winter and take out the garbage, trail run or hike in the shoulder season when trails can be slick, I discovered Kahtoola MICROspikes.  They were a ‘Winner of the prestigious Backpacker Magazine 2012 Editors’ Choice Gold Award.’ You can buy ’em at your local REI or on websites like Amazon.

This cool little traction system easily slips right over all types of boots and shoes. They are sturdy and well made – mine have lasted a few years already. Keep in mind, these are not to replace crampons for serious climbing or snowshoes for deep snow hikes, but they are definitely useful for all types of winter situations I described above.

I am so grateful to have found these little gadgets, you can bet I will have a pair on hand when I trek in Nepal this winter.  They also live in my backpack so I have them in a pinch when I am playing outdoors on a pristine Colorado winter day and find myself in a slippery situation.

Learn French in Guadeloupe!

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Have you ever heard of the Caribbean island of Guadeloupe?  If not, no sweat, I never heard of it before Greg brought it up as a potential vacation destination. He was keen on learning French and loves the beach so he suggested we take French classes in Guadeloupe. I don’t speak a lick of this beautiful language so I decided to jump on the Life Bus for a really cool adventure of a different kind.

Guadeloupe is located in the ‘French’ Caribbean, just a hop, skip, and a jump from Martinique, St Martin and St Barthelemy.  This lovely country belongs to France so it has a distinct French atmosphere (very little English spoken) but with a Creole twist given it’s Caribbean location. The primary land mass of Guadeloupe is made up of two islands that are night and day. The Grande-Terre has most of the amazing white-sand beaches and the Basse-Terre is where you will find the less crowded brown-sand beaches and lush mountainous terrain to explore.  You can find out more about Guadeloupe via this simple link Guadeloupe Travel Guide.

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We picked Apple Languages as our language school of choice.  If you look at their website, you will notice they have options all around the world for every language imaginable. The school in Guadeloupe is located in the town of St. Anne on the Grande-Terre which is one of the nicer beach towns in the area.

OMG – our first day of class was priceless – we looked like deer in the headlights!  The purpose of these classes is to completely immerse you in the language, therefore, not one word of English is spoken – NOT ONE – not even hello.   Of course, we were the only Americans in the class and because we barely knew how to say ‘Je’, we ended up in the beginner class.   Based on the other participants, we should have been in the Beginner – Beginner class.  Everyone else was from Switzerland, Germany and the Netherlands and already knew 2 or 3 other languages.

The experience was humbling and amazing all in the same breath.  The learning structure was very basic and they tried to make it as ‘simple’ and as enjoyable as possible.  I learned over the course of 5 days that French is a difficult language to learn. We did the standard vocabulary exercises where we would pick a word out of a hat and have to describe it in French for others to guess.  One of my words was Beyonce. After a few moments of humiliation and laughter, there was a great girl from Germany who got it after I said, “joli, noir, chanteur, grande derriere.” That was the best I could do with limited skills.

The instructor did a great job of forcing us to speak to her in French.  Every day she would ask us what we did the day before and some times she would ask us personal questions.  So, I reciprocated and asked if she had a boyfriend.   Apparently what I actually asked her was something about a preferred sexual position. Yeah, I stopped asking personal questions after that.

We learned how to read and write sentences and interpret different scenarios just like we all did in grade school.  In the end, after crazy amounts of laughter, we walked away understanding some basic French phrases and words.  It helped us when we got lost driving to the airport and had to get directions from the non-English speaking rental car agent over the phone.

French communities in Colorado are not abundant.  The one thing I would change, is that I would stay for a week or two (or longer) after class to continue to immerse myself in the language.  A family home stay would be ideal.

I HIGHLY recommend a trip like this, it may not be to Guadeloupe but to some other exotic location. This experience certainly challenged our brains and for once, we were able to order dinner in the local language with confidence and increase the odds we were served what we ordered!

Zermatt – A Bucket List Must!!

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I have to admit that when planning our trip to Zermatt, I was looking forward to going there but I wasn’t so excited that I couldn’t contain myself.  I felt more like it was going to be one of those “check-off-the-list” kind of places that we should see since we were going to be close by in the Berner Oberland.  I thought it would be an over-rated tourist town with an interesting mountain.  NOTHING could be further from the truth!!  From the minute Todd and I got to Zermatt we were entranced by the natural beauty of the surrounding scenery and by the loveliness of the town of Zermatt itself.  It has become one of our favorite places ever and one to which we hope to return many more times in our lifetime.  [slideshow]

Zermatt lies at the end of the Matter valley (Mattertal).  To understand the majesty of this place you have to know that the Mattertal is only about a mile wide at most and that the town of Zermatt sits at roughly 5200 feet.  This valley is surrounded by Switzerland’s highest peaks.  Rising up abruptly on all sides of this narrow valley are many peaks with at least 50 of them exceeding 13,000 feet.  As if these peaks, and the numerous massive glaciers, weren’t awesome enough, add the massive, looming presence of the Matterhorn itself and you can begin to understand why this valley takes your breath away!!  The Matterhorn is so much more than just an interestingly shaped peak.  It’s presence is everywhere you go in the valley and it’s history and grandeur are awe-inspiring.  Do I sound really enthusiastic about this place yet?

The town of Zermatt is the quintessential, immaculate, geranium-bedazzled Alpen mountain town you would expect from the Swiss.  One  thing that really makes the town nice is that it is off limits to all motor vehicles unless you live there.  The only other vehicles are these funny little golf-cart type vehicles they use to transport hotel guests and luggage around.  To get to Zermatt you leave your car at a very large garage in Taesch and take an easy train ride into Zermatt.  Don’t panic about leaving your car behind.  Remember, this is Switzerland and the garage is extremely safe and clean.  The town can be a bit touristy but only in the sense that there are quite a few people there in the summer and there are the typical Swiss watch shops, etc.  We really didn’t see any tick-tacky touristy shops selling cuckoo clocks made in China or anything of that ilk.

You really don’t come to Zermatt to just hang out in the town anyway.  You come to Zermatt to experience the Alps and the loveliness  of the outdoors here.  I should mention, however, that the town does have a wonderful, little, rustic museum that is well worth a visit.  It has information on life in the Mattertal hundreds of years ago as well as quite a bit of mountaineering history.  The rope used on the first ascent of the Matterhorn, which then infamously broke on the descent, is on display at the museum as well.  There’s a small cemetery by the church dedicated to fallen mountaineers as well. Quite sobering!

Obviously, the outdoor adventure options in Zermatt, and the surrounding area, are too numerous to list them all here.  Todd and I spent most of our time hiking the trails off of the Gornergrat.  The Gornergrat is a ridge of the Alps surrounded by 29 peaks rising above 13,000 feet and several glaciers, including the Gorner Glacier – the second largest glacier in the Alps. There is a cog railway that makes several stops on its way to the top of the Gornergrat.  You can hop on or off at several stops a long the way.  Gornergratbahn

This trip truly impressed upon me why the Matterhorn and Zermatt are as famous and iconic as they are.  I urge you to make sure your Life Bus steers towards Zermatt at least once!!  You WILL NOT regret it!!  Have fun!!

The Best Darn Trail Runner Out There … La Sportiva Crosslite 2.0

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Let me preface this gear review by saying that I am by no means an expert trail runner.  I am, however, an avid and obsessed trail runner who tries to run as often and as many trails as I possibly can.  When my job took me to Wyoming, I would frequently find myself the only person around for miles period, let alone the only person on the trail.  This, of course, would routinely freak my husband and my mother out.

I am also someone who has tried numerous trail shoes and could never find one that truly fit my narrowish, mildly pronating feet well until …. I met the La Sportiva Crosslite 2.0.

This shoe has revolutionized my trail running.  This trail runner meets and exceeds all of my expectations.  Many of the trails I run are loose, technical trails.  This shoe has had great traction in every terrain in which I have found myself … including wet and slippery.  The shoe is extremely light weight and comfortable.  It feels almost weightless yet is rugged enough to protect and support my feet.  Running with this shoe is the first time my feet haven’t hurt after long periods of time running on trails.  There is a great toe bumper that has protected my tootsies many times.  La Sportiva

I have to admit that, at first, I was very skeptical of the integrated lacing system.  I thought I would forever be losing the laces under the material and not be able to fish them out easily.  Quite the contrary, this system may be my favorite feature of them all.  Instead of losing my laces all the time, this has been the easiest, quickest lacing system I have ever encountered.  With other shoes, I was constantly having to stop my run to retie my shoes.  With the Crosslite system, I never have to retie them.  As an added bonus, you can tuck the laces under the upper material so you don’t have the loops catching on branches and other pointy things which could potentially cause some nasty spills.  The Crosslite is also quite impressive in its ability to dry quickly after getting soaked.  I have run through streams and snow and the shoe always dried immediately and without causing blisters.

So, the next time you find yourself on a trail you have discovered while on the Life Bus, I hope you will be giving these trail runners a test run!!

As I said in the beginning, I am not an elite trail runner … but these shoes make me feel like I am.

Miguels Chile Rellenos and other Mexican Fare … Todos Santos Baja Mexico

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After a spectacular seven days sea-kayaking the Sea of Cortez (more on that in another post), Todd and I decided to see all that the southern most portion of Baja Mexico had to offer.  That’s how we found ourselves bouncing down the Carretera Transpeninsular headed from La Paz to Todos Santos in a tiny, rented tin can.  From what I understand, the highway has since been widened to 4 lanes.  The fact that there are no shoulders and that detours and / or road damage can occur with almost no warning apparently hasn’t changed.

Although Todos Santos is tiny, it’s one of those artist and surfer communities that is coming into its own where you can find galleries and eateries in neat old buildings.  Given the fact that Todd is really not much of a shopper, I don’t have much commentary on the galleries.  We did have some fun food pit stops here, however.  The food find that really stands out as a Life Bus moment is Restaurante Miguel’s.  If I could have designed my perfect rustic, Mexican, beach restaurant, Miguel’s would be it.  Thatched palm roof, dirt floor, no real walls … just thatched half walls and great chile rellenos … and beer!   A relaxing, Jimmy Buffetesque kind of place where you can kick back, enjoy a good meal, and soak in your Mexican vacation.

Todd and I also enjoyed an excellent lunch at Cafe Todos Santos.  The building is an eclectic old structure with lots of open, airy seating.  We had some great salads and they actually bake all of their own bread and cookies here.  Although we didn’t stay at the Todos Santos Inn, I wish we had!  This is a great, small inn housed in an old authentic hacienda.  The location in town is great and it is a beautiful, quiet property.  Todos Santos Inn

So, when exploring the Baja Peninsula, make time for a pit stop in this artisan community.  I think you’ll enjoy it!

The Perfect Honeymoon – Hiking the Aspen Four Pass Loop

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[slideshow]If you’re looking for a honeymoon idea, let me suggest the Aspen Four Pass Loop as an option.  Of course, you should throw in your dear friend and her husband and a sister-in-law to boot.  Fellow Life Busers Pam and Greg and Cinda joined us for this adventure.  What honeymoon is complete without a sister-in-law in the tent with you? All joking aside, hiking the Aspen Four Pass Loop with this crew was the icing on a perfect mountain-cabin wedding the weekend before.

Much has been written about this 26 mile stunning hiking loop with very good reason so I won’t bore you with all of the logistical details.  That information can be found on numerous other websites.  What I want to share are some reasons why this hike merits honeymoon and / or bucket list status.  See 50 Places to Hike Before you Die by Chris Santella.

Our plans were to hike this loop over Labor Day and to spend 3 nights doing so.  I know, I know it can be done by ultra-runners in a day but we wanted the opportunity to soak in all of the scenery and solitude.  I would highly recommend the Labor Day timeframe.  We had beautiful weather with a proverbial afternoon shower here and there.  In true Colorado style, the storms left as soon as they came.  You do have to time your hiking with these showers as there are vast expanses of exposed, treeless basins where you don’t want to be when it’s storming.

So, what did I love about this trip?  Where should I begin.  If you like to challenge yourself and work on your fitness, this route will do it for you.  You cross four passes that will definitely get your ticker pumping and lungs burning.  They are all higher than 12,000 feet with steep ascents and descents out of the wetland meadows below.  In fact, except for the beginning and the very end, the loop never descends below 10,000 feet.

I love exercise as much as the next person but that wouldn’t be enough for this trip to merit the bucket list ranking if it didn’t have stunning scenery to complement the physical challenge.   From the very start of the trek, you are treated with iconic imagery starting with the Maroon Bells and Crater Lake.  Don’t be deterred by the number of people visiting this landmark.  Once you head out towards West Maroon Pass you quickly leave people behind and, once you go up and over this first pass, the crowd thins out to almost nothing …. if not nothing.  In fact, once we got over West Maroon until we descended Buckskin (the final pass), we saw only 2 other people the entire time.  This route routinely gets rated one of the most scenic routes in Colorado for a reason.  The views of the Maroon Bells and the rest of the Elk Mountains are breath-taking.  The route takes you all the way around the Bells and Elk Mountains for virtually a 360 degree view of the rugged peaks.  After each pass you descend into beautiful, lush, green wetland basins with excellent camping locations.  The rugged beauty of Snowmass Lake was an unexpected jewel of this hike.

Another unexpected treat was the greeting we got from a family of mountain goats as we reached the top of Buckskin Pass.  We were privileged enough to see these guys, even the baby, successfully navigate a steep snowfield.

The effort this trek requires is so worth every step.  It is heart-warming to know that there is still such peace, solitude, and unspoiled beauty out there if you just go beyond the beaten path.

Yes, I think our marriage is stronger for having shared such a great honeymoon adventure with loved ones.