Tag Archives: Alaska

Living My Life

My cousin is living my life. The life I dream of. That dream I have during long, painful meetings where I’ve slipped the surly, golden bonds of corporate America and am living one crazy grand adventure after another.

Last I saw him was Key West, FL. I had just completed a triathlon, a sport I love but in which I infrequently participate, because the sport seems to attract the most obsessive of gear heads. Not many seem to do tris for the pure, unadulterated joy of movement. He had arrived there one month prior via a sailboat ride from Anaheim. The boat’s captain is a bush pilot my cousin met in McCarthy, Alaska, home to both. I am pretty sure he is living my life as well. To him, it is all routine, shuttling the adventurous off to their dream kayaking/mountaineering/skiing expedition. I have learned, though, that one man’s routine is another man’s lifetime experience. I hope one day to have the chance to buy him a beer or two, and hear the stories.

If you’ve never been to (or even heard of) McCarthy, it is truly the last of the last frontiers. It is nestled in the Wrangell-St Elias National Park–at 13.2 million acres, the largest national park in the U.S., and larger than Switzerland. I visited him there after my bitter disappointment on Denali. His home is a beautiful, modest log home that he built himself, on a piece of land with a small lake, plentiful trees, and no sign of neighbors. Completely off the grid, energy comes from a generator, the sun, or a cozy wood stove. The outhouse is the only downside of this arrangement.

Well, not the only. The town is at the end of a sixty mile dirt road (when I first looked up McCarthy, I thought the road name was “Closed In Winter”). The nearest grocery store is six hours away. That’s a long haul to get Ben and Jerry’s after a sucky day, but then, how many sucky days could there be in McCarthy, Alaska? And keeping it warm at night requires a couple of wake up calls.

When I ran into my cousin. in Key West, he had just become best buddies with some Alaska transplants and was beach and bar hopping around the Keys. I’m the epitome of introvert and rarely meet anyone new, much less connect with this group as deeply as I did. I spent three days with them, alternating drinking and having the most honest discussion of fears and dreams and growing up and old since the long ago college late night runs to Taco Cabana.

Mark left in the middle of this break from reality to hop a plane to Arizona. His next adventure was on the Grand Canyon. For most, this is a once in a lifetime adventure–for Mark, well, let’s just say it wasn’t his first time, and probably not the last. He promised to send the next invitation my way. Now all I have to do is convince work that one month vacations are totally normal. They’re still reeling from the last one. I guess I should be relieved they don’t like me being gone that long.

When he’s not out living my life, Mark is at home, spending the long summer Alaskan days working for the National Park Service, restoring an abandoned copper mine. He took me for a tour last summer, and it is quite the glorious wreck. Breathtaking in its disarray, I’m not sure how OSHA would view it. He had spent the prior winter on a balmy island somewhere south, where he had spent a couple months recuperating and rehabilitating from shoulder surgery. Working to restore copper mines is tough work, and his rotator cuff was the unfortunate casualty.

When I dream of chucking it all, I seldom think about it with a realistic bent. Truth is, lifestyles of any type require some kind of sacrifice and compromise. My job allows me only three weeks of adventure a year, but also gives me a decent budget for those three weeks. It demands a lot from me, yet allows the flexibility to explore while “working from home”: five days in Key West cost me almost no adventure time. And I like coming home to a hot shower. I’m spoiled having a grocery store and take out Vietnamese within walking distance.

If I can just figure out how to get internet connectivity in a raft and a waterproof laptop, I think I’d have it made.

Weekly Photo Challenge: Forward

I like these photos for the Forward challenge because they show the view from the cockpit …. one literally and the others more figuratively.  The actual cockpit photo was taken near Juneau, Alaska.  We flew Ward Air out of Juneau and had the great fortune of having a friend of a friend be our pilot.  He took great care of us and took us on some special glacier viewing opportunities as well as up and over some glacial valleys.  I’ll never forget this moment because we were all looking out the windshield seeing these peaks getting closer by the second. No one said anything but we were all wondering … how are we getting over those when we are obviously lower than the summits.  Fortunately, without any problem!!  There was such a thrill on the other side of these peaks.  The ground fell away immediately and it felt like we were free-falling for a second.  The other two photos were taken on sea kayaking adventure trips.  One was taken in the Sea of Cortez and the other most recently kayaking to Tobacco Caye by the Belizean barrier reef.  Tobacco Caye was literally Gilligan’s Island and where we would spend the next 3 nights!!  Hope you all enjoy the views forward!!

Backpacking in Denali National Park – Adventure at its Finest!

If you want to experience Denali National Park up close and personal, backpacking through this jewel is the way to go. The chance of coming face to face with a wild animal is pretty much 100% guaranteed. Currently you cannot drive through the park on your own, you must take one of the school-bus transportation options back and forth along Park Road – the main artery through the park. It is all fun and games when you see a grizzly from the safety of a bus, but when one is about a football field away and there is a 50 lb pack on your back in 40mph head winds – that is quite a different situation. It will make the hair on the back of your neck stand up and/or make you pee your pants. At least that was my experience.

Lexi, Todd, Greg and I originally planned 3 nights in the Denali wilderness but it was reduced to one night for 3 reasons: 1) The unit we were allocated did not provide views of Mt. McKinley, so we took a last minute detour to the Wonder Lake Campground (post coming soon) where this massive natural wonder is front and center; 2) One of Lexi and Todd’s tent poles broke. Fortunately they were prepared and had duct tape to keep it together but it made for a challenging tent situation; 3) The winds were howling like mad so our tents were making hideously strange noises during the night.  We were ‘confident’ there was a grizzly (or 2) circling around our campsite which happened to be smack dab in the middle of a river bed. Pretty sure none of us slept a wink.

How did we end up bunking in a river bed, prime territory and stomping grounds for grizzlies and other creatures like wolves, moose and caribou (we saw the footprints in the dry mud)??  When we started our trek to our campsite, 5 miles away in Unit 31, we had the option to navigate along the slopes of the East Fork River Bar (EFRB) or increase our chances of a grizzly encounter and make our way directly through the EFRB. Because of the unsettling wild animal encounter videos we were required to watch, we decided the slopes might be the ‘safer’ route.

The slopes at the edge of the EFRB are vegetated with stands of spruce trees or tall willows. One thing to note, there are no marked trails in Denali so you have to bushwhack and find your own way via a topo map or GPS unit. We found out quickly that willows would become our worst enemy. They grow so tightly together, navigation can be tough and slow – it took us 4 hours to go 4 miles loaded with 40 to 50 lb packs strapped to our backs – for experienced backpackers, this was pathetically slow. By the time we got to the 4 mile mark, we were exhausted, cranky and desperate to set up camp at the first dry, flat spot we could find – in the EFRB.

After 24 hours of wild winds, broken tent poles, irrational visions of a highly unlikely animal attack, we decided one night was probably good enough for all of us. In order to avoid some approaching bad weather, we decided to take the path of least resistance back to Park Road directly through the EFRB. All went well until we emerged from the EFRB and were about .5 miles from hopping a bus to safety. The winds were about 35 to 40 miles/hour so we were forced to walk heads down to avoid falling backwards. After several minutes of fighting said evil headwinds, I hear Greg say, “Is that a bear?”.  We all stopped DEAD in our tracks and looked up – sure enough there was a male grizzly about a football field away – his big hump bulging high on his back – in our minds, he looked like the size of a VW bug. He stopped for a few seconds, sniffed into the wind and began to head in our direction – I nearly piddled in my pants. The 4 of us huddled together must have looked like too much to handle (or maybe our legs were too skinny to be an enjoyable snack) as he eventually changed his plans and dropped down into the EFRB in search of a tasty morsel.

Although my description of the trip sounds a little crazy – it was one of the most exhilarating experiences on the Life Bus. I highly recommend this trip if you are an avid backpacker seeking an adventure in an iconic Alaskan wilderness. We learned to take the bear and leave-no-trace videos seriously – you never know when a wild animal will cross your path in Denali and it would be nice to keep it pristine for generations to come. One area we could have improved upon was to find a few extra minutes to relax – if you are conscientious and follow the rules, you will be in great shape to survive the journey!

All in all, this is a true, off-the-charts Life Bus experience words cannot fully describe!!  The best place to start researching where to hunker down is via the Denali Backpacking Guide documented from the National Park Service.  ENJOY!!

Weekly Photo Challenge: Thankful

So I am thankful for A LOT of things:  My awesome husband who lets me drag him around the world, pets who bring me unconditional love, friends who explore, laugh and cry with me, family (most of them), the invention of Reese’s Peanut Butter cups, I could go on and on…..however, for this challenge, I decided to highlight how thankful I am to have the ability to experience nature and the outdoors in the most amazing ways.  “Nature is my church” so to speak, and any day I have the privilege of seeing an animal (or 2) in their natural habitat is one more reason I am happy to keep on truckin’.

This image of an Orca family was taken in Glacier Bay, Alaska – what a sweet experience!  Wonder what they did for Thanksgiving this year?  🙂

Check out what others are thankful for at the Word Press Weekly Photo Challenge!!  ENJOY!

Talkeetna: Funky Mountain Town with the World’s Best Cinnamon Rolls

[slideshow]In true Life Bus fashion, Pam. Greg, Todd, and I were continuing our Alaskan adventure by driving to Denali National Park to try our hand at backpacking in Denali’s backcountry.  On the highway to Denali we saw signs for Talkeetna and veered off the road to make a pit stop here.  All we had really heard about Talkeetna was that Talkeetna was a tiny, scenic mountain town and the place where most climbers begin their quest to summit Denali.  Despite the fact that our views of Denali and the surrounding mountains were obscured by low clouds and mist, Talkeetna is a pit stop any Life Busser has to make when venturing in Alaska.  With or without the spectacular views of the Alaska Range, Talkeetna is a town with a great vibe, great food, and great people.  Even if you are not part of the mountaineers heading out to take on Denali, you can’t help but feel a part of something cool when you are here. You almost feel like you want to grab some crampons and go for it.  Normally I would never speak kindly of dampness but in Talkeetna it makes you want to grab a cozy fleece and head in doors for a cup o’ coffee and one of the world’s best cinnamon rolls. Talkeetna might be the epitome of a Life Bus pit stop.

In Talkeetna you will see people getting ready to push their limits on Denali, people who have chosen a slower life way off the grid, and people like us who love these small, out-of-the-way towns with character and scenery in abundance.  This scenic, historic, “end-of-the-road” town feels like you just stepped onto the set of Northern Exposure.  This is a town where, we were informed by the locals, they have a sign-up list for moose road kill.  When a moose is killed on the roads, the carcass gets shared with whomever is on the list.  Talk about using all of your resources to the fullest! Quaint, historic store fronts line the town’s tiny main thoroughfare with lush, beautiful flowers that appear to thrive in this damp climate.

For such a tiny town, there are quite a few great looking watering holes.  We ventured into the Roadhouse for a bite to eat.  Wow, what a find!!  Talkeetna Roadhouse.  The Roadhouse is the quintessential, mountain-town, breakfast joint jam packed with patrons hanging out in various levels of fleece / climber fashion.  The walls are adorned with tons of Denali climbing memorabilia.  It is a small, busy place and you wonder how they turn out such amazing food in a building  built in 1917.  Anyhoo, let’s get to the really important part of all of this …. the food.  We saw pancakes the size of platters draping over the edges of the plates, burritos the size of your head, and yes …. gooey, not too sweet, humongous cinnamon rolls that are gifts from heaven and still have me dreaming about them.  So good I recently tried to FedEx them to Colorado for my husband’s birthday.  No dice, they said they won’t travel well.   We then cruised over to the West Rib Pub.  We had good hamburgers and a great local bartender.

In all honesty, there isn’t a ton to do in Talkeetna proper.  It is clearly an access point to lots of outdoor adventure.  It is, however, very beautiful, has great food, and a cool vibe which makes it worth a stop.  And, if you’re lucky to have good weather, the views of the Denali and the Alaska Range are said to be breath-taking.  One caveat, we had the misfortune of sharing this quaint town with a tour bus full of cruisers from a Princess Cruise tour. They apparently descend on the town periodically.  Oh well, what do you do? So, take your bus to Talkeetna sometime.  The beauty and cinnamon rolls are worth the trip!!!

Southeast Alaska – Cabins, Float Planes, Grizzlies, and Fish

[slideshow]

If you really, REALLY want to get away from it all:  TV’s, cellphones, spouses, kids, work, escape to Alaska where it is easy to get lost!   What’s that saying about dating in Alaska?  “The odds are good but the goods are odd.”   Pretty sure there is some truth to that saying based on what I have seen.  What does that have to do with travel you say?  Absolutely nothing.

After plowing through multiple guidebooks, Lexi and I concluded we needed to reserve a cabin in the Tongass National Forest in Southeast (SE) Alaska – we wanted to experience the true Alaskan wilderness and exit off the grid for a few days with Greg and Todd in tow.  I did a bunch of research – went to Outside and Backpacker magazine websites and Google, scouring for reviews on the experience. I came across a few but never found the information I was looking for – what to expect, what to bring, how to get there, etc.  Hopefully this blog will save you some time and reduce the headaches associated with planning a trip like this.

Here is the low-down on the cabin situation.  There are approximately 150 cabins in SE Alaska.  The cabins are managed by the US Forest Service and can be further researched at http://www.fs.fed.us/r10/tongass/cabins/cabins.shtml.   Descriptions on this site are relatively good and will inform you as to the location and the basic (VERY) amenities available – bed configuration, fire ring, boat availability and hiking opportunities.  They are generally located on pristine lakes, rivers, streams and salt water beaches and require a float plane to access.

First things first.  You have to figure out just how remote you want to be and how much time (and money) you have on your hands.   The islands in SE Alaska are not connected by highways so your mode of transportation is either by boat, float plane or by Alaska Air – as you can imagine, they have full marketshare of the airways up there so options are slim.  Because the islands are not easily connected, the time to get from place to place can take some time.

We were limited on time and cash so we chose a cabin that was very close to Juneau on Turner Lake.  At first, I was disappointed it was only an hour from civilization.  I really wanted to be WAY out there.  However, the further out you want to go, the greater the cost – similar to the cost to fly to Europe – fuel costs are ridiculous.  In the end, it doesn’t matter where you are.  You will definitely feel as though you are away from it all.

Key Tip:  Book the cabin at http://www.recreation.gov/ as soon as the reservation systems open up for that time period – at least 6 months ahead.  Note the cabins closer to Juneau have a tendency to fill up fast.

The next item to tackle is to determine how you are going to get there.  We chose Ward Air http://www.wardair.com/.  We have a friend who works there and has been a pilot in Alaska for a VERY long time.    We called other companies to validate pricing and they were all pretty comparable.

Key tip:   Book well in advance and ask for pilot Dan at Ward Air to escort you on your journey.  Also inquire about potential boondoggle routes you can take – over glaciers, special lakes, etc.  It will cost extra but it is well worth it!

Packing the right clothes and gear for a trip like this can be a challenge – mostly because it can be cold and rainy (even in the summer) and if you are on a lake, you may be able to partake in some fishing, kayaking or swimming activities.

Key Tip:  Bring a fishing pole (there is potential for snagging Salmon and Trout depending on cabin location), warm and cold weather clothing – preferably not cotton – that stuff doesn’t dry, I don’t care how cute it is – and rain gear.    Also, march down to your nearest bookstore and load up on books.  You will not have the option to check Facebook or read this blog!  If you want to bring a kayak or 2, don’t be shy about that – the plane should be able to accommodate you, however, I would double check with the float plane company.  You will have to bring a sleeping pad and sleeping bag with you as the beds are not equipped with mattresses.

Face it, unless you plan on hunting and fishing to feed your family and friends, you need food and drink to survive out there in the wilderness.   Pack as though you are car camping and don’t skimp.  We ran out of adult beverages on day 2 and it was painful.

Key Tip:   Bring a camping stove and plenty of fuel (cabins are not equipped with kitchens), utensils, foil (for cooking fish on the fire ring) and bring coolers of food and drink for a few extra days beyond what you are planning. We brought backpacking cooking gear with us and that worked out fine too – it just limited what we could cook.  Also, pack a water filter so you can drink the water from the near-by lake.   Chairs are a must, we had backpacking chairs which worked great.  Double check with the float plane company to see if they have weight restrictions.

Now for the good stuff.   From the moment you take off in the float plane, you will instantly feel as though you are part of something special.  Pilot Dan took us on a boondoggle past some of the most phenomenal glaciers I have ever seen in my life. After about an hour of flying around in paradise and a surprisingly smooth water landing, we made it to our destination – a small, log cabin on an emerald colored lake – nothing surrounding it but an outhouse and a couple of aluminum fishing boats. I think all of us were so excited we nearly peed our pants.

We unloaded our gear and said goodbye to Dan who said, “I will see you Tuesday noon, assuming the weather is good.”  What does THAT mean you ask?  The weather in SE Alaska can be, shall we say, moist.  So much so, the pilots cannot always come and get you as scheduled, hence the dire need to pack more food and drink than you need.  It could be days before you see your pilot.  It drizzled about 80% of the time we were there, so when Tuesday noon rolled around, we sat there like anxious dogs waiting for their owners to come home from work (he showed on time).

One last parting comment:  If you happen to see coarse, brown fur wedged in the cracks of the outside awning of your cabin and claw marks on the door and windowsills – yes folks – that means you are in the midst of grizzly country.  Understand it, respect it, and by all means, don’t do something stupid like leave your food and cooking equipment outside over night.   If you do so, rest assured you will have a visit from one of these 600 lb creatures – you could potentially put yourself and others in harms way – can’t say that would be a pleasant experience for the animal either, unless you have some tasty thighs on you.

Sound fun?  To date, It is in the top 10, “most fun things” I have ever done in my life.  I say, jump on the life bus for the experience of a life time and give it a go – grizzly bears and all.